Use a primer or spray paint whose maker names plastic, such as Rust-Oleum Specialty Plastic Primer or Krylon Fusion All-In-One. The hard part is polyethylene and polypropylene: Zinsser BONDZ and INSL-X Stix say not to use them there, Rust-Oleum’s plastic primer names polypropylene but warns about polyethylene, and the Krylon pages we read print nothing either way.
Two routes
You can put a plastic primer under any topcoat its maker allows, or use a paint and primer in one whose maker names plastic. Krylon’s plastic how-to says to spray Bonding Primer with Fusion Technology first, and adds: “if you are using Fusion All-In-One, no need to prime!”
| Product | Type | Plastics the maker names | Polyethylene or polypropylene | Dry and topcoat |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rust-Oleum Specialty Plastic Primer | Primer (spray) | “polypropylene, polystyrene, resin, PVC, fiberglass, and vinyl plastics” | Polypropylene is named; some polyethylene “may hinder maximum paint adhesion. Test paint in a hidden area first.” | Rust-Oleum oil-based finish after 1 hour, any latex topcoat after 4 hours; “Maximum adhesion is achieved in 5-7 days.” |
| Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch 2X Ultra Cover (primer and colors) | Primer; paint | “most plastic” | The same polyethylene tip as the Plastic Primer | Primer data sheet: recoat within 1 hour or after 24 hours (its page says 48 hours before a topcoat); colors: within 1 hour or after 48 hours |
| Rust-Oleum Universal | Paint and primer in one | “plastic” | The polyethylene tip again | Recoat within 1 hour or after 48 hours |
| Rust-Oleum Automotive Plastic Primer | Primer | “interior and exterior plastic surfaces” | Not mentioned | Topcoat after 1 hour; maximum adhesion and durability in 5 to 7 days |
| Rust-Oleum Automotive Adhesion Promoter | Clear primer | “polyolefin surfaces such as automotive plastics, vinyl, trim, bumpers, fiberglass” | Says “polyolefin”; doesn’t name either one | “A topcoat must be applied within 10 minutes” |
| Krylon Fusion All-In-One | Paint and primer in one | Plastic, PVC, laminate; its FAQ adds hard vinyl and resin | Nothing printed either way | Touch 20 minutes, handle 1 hour |
| Krylon Bonding Primer with Fusion Technology | Primer | “plastics, laminates” | Nothing printed either way | Touch 25 minutes |
| Zinsser BONDZ | Primer | PVC, vinyl, laminated Formica, fiberglass | “not recommended for use on polyethylene, polypropylene, Teflon® or nylon surfaces” | Data sheet: topcoat in 3 hours; page: recoat in 1 hour |
| Sherwin-Williams Extreme Bond | Primer | “PVC Piping”, “Plastics”, “Fiberglass” | “Does not adhere to polypropylene, polyethylene, or thermoplastic polyolefins.” | Recoat as a primer in 1 hour; topcoat within 14 days |
| Sherwin-Williams Multi-Purpose Latex Primer | Primer | “Many Plastics”, PVC piping, fiberglass | Not mentioned | Touch 30 minutes, recoat 1 hour |
| Benjamin Moore INSL-X Stix | Primer | “PVC, vinyl, plastic”, fiberglass | “Not recommended for use over polyethylene or polypropylene.” | Recoat 3 to 4 hours; about 3 to 4 days to its maximum scrape resistance |
| KILZ Adhesion | Primer | “Architectural Plastics”, PVC, vinyl, fiberglass, laminates | Not mentioned | Touch 30 minutes, recoat 1 hour |
| BEHR Bonding Primer No. 432 | Primer | “PVC, vinyl, Formica®”, fiberglass, “architectural plastics” | Not mentioned | Touch 30 minutes; ready to topcoat in 1 hour; topcoat within 14 days |
From each product’s data sheet, label or page. Rust-Oleum’s Painter’s Touch 2X and Universal data sheets also say not to apply them to galvanized steel. Stix must be top coated for exterior use, its data sheet says. KILZ Adhesion’s data sheet and BEHR’s No. 432 label each say to let the primer dry 24 hours before a topcoat of epoxy, lacquer or another hot solvent product, and to test that topcoat first.
Polyethylene and polypropylene
The makers split on these two. Zinsser BONDZ, INSL-X Stix and Sherwin-Williams Extreme Bond rule them out. Rust-Oleum’s Specialty Plastic Primer names polypropylene as a target, and says some polyethylene, such as plastic storage containers, “may hinder maximum paint adhesion.” Krylon’s Fusion pages, Bonding Primer page, FAQ and plastic how-to name neither one, as a target or as an exclusion. Neither do KILZ Adhesion’s data sheet and BEHR’s No. 432 label.
Not sure which plastic you have? Our plastic, polypropylene and polyethylene pages show how to tell. On polypropylene, we’d use the one primer here that names it, Rust-Oleum’s Plastic Primer. On polyethylene, Rust-Oleum warns adhesion may suffer, so we’d test a hidden spot first and be ready for it not to hold.
Prep and coats, in the makers’ words
- Rust-Oleum Specialty Plastic Primer: on new plastic, “thoroughly wipe down surface with paint thinner to promote adhesion”; “Sanding may be required for glossy or smooth surfaces.” Apply “one THIN coat instead of one heavy coat or multiple coats,” between 50 and 90°F with humidity below 65%.
- Rust-Oleum Automotive Plastic Primer: “For best adhesion, apply ONE thin coat.”
- Krylon: its how-to says older plastic may need loose paint or old coatings removed, then a gentle sanding and a rinse with water. Fusion All-In-One gives best results at 55 to 75°F with humidity below 60%.
- Sherwin-Williams Extreme Bond: scuff sand or scrub plastic with an abrasive cleaner to dull it, and “Do not use hydrocarbon containing solvents such as mineral spirits.” It says plastics vary so much that a coating “must be tested for acceptable adhesion.”
- Zinsser BONDZ: “DO NOT USE TSP. Always test a small area for acceptable adhesion.”
- INSL-X Stix: “Always test questionable substrates such as plastics” with a small area first.
Rust-Oleum’s plastic primer starts with a paint thinner wipe, while Sherwin-Williams says no mineral spirits under Extreme Bond. They are different products, so we’d follow the cleaning line of the primer you actually buy.
Give it a week
Rust-Oleum’s Plastic Primer, Painter’s Touch 2X and Automotive Plastic Primer data sheets each give 5 to 7 days for maximum adhesion on plastic. We’d handle painted plastic gently until then.
Rust-Oleum’s Plastic Primer SDS carries the signal word “Danger” and lists “H222 Extremely flammable aerosol” and “H351 Suspected of causing cancer”; its data sheet says to use it outdoors or in a well ventilated area, and not near open flame. Krylon’s Fusion SDS lists “Suspected of causing cancer. May damage fertility or the unborn child.”
KILZ Adhesion’s data sheet says “WARNING IRRITANT HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED,” that it may cause eye, nose and throat irritation, and to use it only with adequate ventilation. BEHR’s Bonding Primer No. 432 label says “WARNING! IRRITANT! HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED,” and to wear eye protection and protective clothing and use it only with adequate ventilation.
Gluing plastic instead?
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