Titebond says most of its glues are designed to bond bare wood. Paint or stain blocks the pores the glue needs, and oily woods such as teak need fresh planing or an acetone wipe. Gorilla designs its wood glue for wood, hardwoods and natural wood composites.
What each wood glue is made for
| Glue | Made for | Limits the maker gives |
|---|---|---|
| Titebond Original | Wood, hardboard, particleboard, leather, cloth and most other porous materials | Not for exterior use or where moisture is likely |
| Titebond II Premium | Outdoor woodworking: furniture, birdhouses, mailboxes, planters | Low pH may corrode metal; test on treated lumber; call Titebond before gluing oily or exotic woods such as Ipe and teak |
| Titebond III Ultimate | Interior and exterior woodworking | Low pH may corrode metal; test on treated lumber; call Titebond about exterior doors and oily or exotic woods |
| Titebond Melamine Glue | Wood, particleboard, MDF and other porous materials to melamine, vinyl, HPL and metals | Not for exterior use; not below 40°F |
| Gorilla Wood Glue | Wood, hardwoods, natural wood composites | Gorilla lists it as not stainable |
| Gorilla Wood Glue Ultimate | Wood, hardwoods, natural wood composites | Gorilla lists it as stainable |
From each glue’s product page or FAQ. None of these wood glue pages lists plastic other than Titebond Melamine Glue’s vinyl and HPL.
Painted, stained or sealed wood
Titebond says painting or staining wood blocks the pores and keeps the glue from soaking in. Some of its glues may work on painted or stained surfaces, it says, but the joint will only be as strong as the paint’s hold on the wood. Titebond recommends cleaning every surface of paint, stain and sealer before gluing.
Oily woods: teak, cedar and redwood
Titebond says a surface layer of oil or tannic acid builds up on these woods. Planing, jointing or sanding shortly before gluing removes it; otherwise, wipe the surface with acetone, which dries fast enough to glue almost right away. For Ipe, teak and other exotic or oily woods, the Titebond II and III pages suggest calling its technical team.
Keeping glue off on purpose
Squeeze-out may make wood around a joint hard to stain, so Titebond suggests masking the areas you’ll stain with masking tape before you glue. The masked wood stays free of stain-resisting glue once the tape comes off. Gorilla and Titebond both say to wipe wet glue away with a damp cloth, and to scrape or sand it once it has dried.
Metal and plastic
Titebond warns that the low pH of Titebond II and III may corrode metal, so test them where rust is a concern. For laminate or metal on wood, Titebond sells its Melamine Glue. We’d look at the glues makers list for wood to metal or plastic to wood.
Titebond’s caution for Titebond Original reads: eye and skin irritant; do not swallow, and avoid eye contact or long skin contact.
Gluing wood to something else?
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